A Lifelong Dream Came True

28 November 2017


When I was 10 years old, I had this dream. It was a really random dream, and I think it might have come from a McFly song... But, I really wanted to learn how to surf. It was ingrained into me, it was like my ultimate life goal, it was the thing I wanted the most in life, but it was also something I kept kind of on the downlow. Because I grew up in central Scotland. There's nowhere there for a 10 year old to surf without travelling a distance. Also it's really cold here. Not a good idea.

As I grew older, I started to let that side of me show a bit more. I went through a wannabe-skater phase (I owned a skateboard but I was too scared of falling off to ever ride it) and played the Tony Hawk PlayStation Games. I loved the surfer style and anything even remotely related to it, it was my 'aesthetic', I suppose you could say, and you're probably aware that Point Break (the original 1991 film) is one of my favourites.

Flashforward to two weeks ago. I was in Lanzarote with my family (read my post about my Lanzarote Highlights excursion here!) and I found that there was a number of surf schools dotted around. I chose one called Lava Flow surf school, and I made the decision to book myself a lesson. My dream was about to be a reality.

So, I made the arrangements. 17th November, 45 Euros, which includes pick up from my instuctor, Phil, equipment hire and my lunch. Perfect.

The day arrived and I was filled with a range of emotions. I was excited, because this was the moment I'd been dreaming about for 13 years. I was terrified... Because what if I didn't like it? I was nervous because I was going to be around 5 people I'd never met before, but I was also bursting with adreneline.

So, I got myself kitted up. (Note that I was so nervous I really confused myself trying to put on and fasten up the wetsuit. Nice one, Gail.) I picked up my board for the day and then made my way to the beach.

We were taught in stages; first lying down and getting the feel for the waves, and how to catch then, and then we were taught how to stand and balance. I wasn't very good at standing up, which I think is likely to be down to my snowboarding experience, but I did (sort of) manage it 3 times, even if I fell right into the water way more than I stood up. It was really fun! And it was even better than I thought it would be.

When I walked into the water, it really felt like all my worries melted away, and I felt incredible. I felt like I belonged, which I know, is probably the lamest thing I've ever said. But, its true. I didn't care when I fell off my board and coughed up water, because I got back on the damn thing and kept trying until I was too tired to push myself up any more.

It felt like no time at all that we were back in the car again and getting dropped off at my hotel, where I said my goodbyes, and ran back to my room to have a shower because I was going out with my family that night. Afterwards, and once I was all sorted, I realised just how calm and relaxed I felt. I know in my heart that it was because I'd just completed 5 hours of exercise, but I also like to believe that it was a mixture of that and the sea air that made me feel so good.

There was something on the Point Break documentaries (that are an extra on the DVD) that always sticks out to me, and it was when they were talking about the power of the water. That can destroy you in an instant, but instead, it allows you to ride it, and it's almost a spiritual experience, in a way. I didn't know how much I'd feel that during my first lesson, but god... I felt it.

I really loved surfing, is what I want to say, and I really want to go back and do some more as soon as I can because I now know how euphoric it makes me feel. I just have to make it a regular thing. I have to.

But now I need to find a new dream. This was something 13 years in the making, and now that wait is well over, and I couldn't be happier!

Thank you, Lava Flow Surf School for helping me fulfill this life ambition of mine. I hope I can book another lesson with you sometime in the near future.

Until next time, be excellent to each other.

No comments :

Post a Comment